In an emergency, get everyone out first and call for help on 112 from a cellphone, or your local fire brigade. This guide is general information; always follow the manufacturer's instructions and local regulations.
For most South African homes, a dry chemical powder (DCP) extinguisher rated for classes A, B and C is the sensible all-rounder. Mount it near an exit in or close to the kitchen, add a fire blanket for pan fires, and have it serviced every year. An extinguisher is only for a small fire you can tackle with a clear way out. If a fire is spreading, get everyone out and call for help.
First rule: people before property
An extinguisher buys you a few seconds against a small fire. It doesn’t make you a firefighter. Before you pick one up, run through this checklist:
- Raise the alarm. Shout and get everyone moving towards the exit.
- Call for help. From a cellphone, dial 112. For the police, call 10111. Save your local municipal fire and rescue number in your phone today, because the number differs from city to city.
- Only fight a fire that is small, contained (a pan, a bin, a small patch of floor) and not spreading to walls or ceilings.
- Keep your back to the exit. If the extinguisher doesn’t knock the fire down in the first few seconds, or the room fills with smoke, leave and close the door behind you.
Never go back into a burning building for belongings.
Which extinguisher for a home?
South African suppliers sell five main types. Our fire extinguisher types guide explains the fire classes and the PASS method in detail. Here’s the short version for a household:
| Type | Fire classes (check the label) | Good for at home | Don’t use on |
|---|---|---|---|
| DCP (dry chemical powder), ABC | A, B, C | All-round use: furniture, paper, petrol, paraffin, gas fires, and many models are also marked safe on live electrical equipment | Cooking oil or fat fires (can spread burning oil). It also leaves a fine powder everywhere |
| CO2 (carbon dioxide) | B, and electrical equipment | Studies, DB boards, electronics. Leaves no residue | Small, enclosed rooms (displaces oxygen); poor on solids like wood |
| Foam | A, B | Garages and workshops with fuels | Live electrical equipment, unless the label says otherwise; cooking oil |
| Water | A only | Wood, paper and fabric | Electrical, fat, oil, petrol or gas fires. Never use it on these |
| Wet chemical | F (cooking oils and fats), often A | Commercial kitchens, homes that deep-fry often | Electrical equipment, unless the label says otherwise |
The practical home setup:
- One ABC DCP extinguisher in or near the kitchen, mounted by the exit rather than over the stove.
- A fire blanket on the kitchen wall for pan and oil fires. See our fire blanket guide.
- A second extinguisher for a large or double-storey house, a garage, a workshop, or an outdoor braai area or lapa.
- A CO2 unit is worth considering near a home office or server cupboard if powder residue would damage equipment.
Always read the label. It shows the classes the extinguisher is rated for, using letters and pictograms. Don’t assume colour tells you what’s inside.
What size do you need?
DCP extinguishers are sold by the mass of powder inside. Common sizes in South Africa:
| Size | Typical use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 kg | Cars, boats, caravans, braai kits | Very short discharge time. A backup, not a home’s main extinguisher |
| 2.5 kg | Kitchen, flat, small home | Light enough for most adults to handle |
| 4.5 kg | Main extinguisher for a family home, garage, lapa | A good balance of capacity and weight |
| 9 kg | Larger homes, workshops, farms, businesses | Heavy. Make sure everyone who might use it can lift and aim it |
Bigger is not always better. A 9 kg unit is no use if the person at home can’t lift it quickly. Many households go for a 4.5 kg DCP as the main unit and a 1 kg or 2.5 kg for the car or braai area. For vehicles, a 1 kg or 2 kg ABC unit on a proper bracket is the usual choice.
Where to put it
- Near an exit, on the escape route. You should grab it on the way towards a fire and keep your exit behind you.
- Not right next to the hazard. An extinguisher beside the stove may be impossible to reach once the stove is on fire. A metre or two away, near the kitchen door, is better.
- Mounted on a bracket, at a height everyone can reach, not stuffed in a cupboard under the sink.
- Visible and unobstructed. Everyone in the house should know where it is.
- Out of direct sun and weather where possible. If you keep one at an outdoor braai or fire pit, use a cover or a sheltered spot.
- Garages and workshops need their own, especially where you store fuel, paint, gas cylinders or a generator.
What to look for when buying
The SERPs for “fire extinguisher” are mostly suppliers, so here’s an independent checklist.
- Certification. In South Africa, portable extinguishers installed in buildings must comply with SANS 1910 under the building regulations (SANS 10400-T). Industry sources say certification marks come from bodies such as the SABS, BSI (Kitemark) or SACAS. Look for a certification mark on the label.
- A full label. It should show the manufacturer, the fire classes, the agent and its mass, the working pressure and the test pressure. A label with missing details is a red flag.
- A pressure gauge (on stored-pressure DCP units). The needle should sit in the green zone.
- A metal head and valve rather than plastic, where the budget allows. Metal heads are typically found on mid and premium units.
- A wall bracket included in the box.
- A seller who can service it. Buying from a SANS 1475 permit holder means you can have it serviced and recharged by the same company.
Where to buy: hardware stores, large retailers, online stores and fire equipment companies all sell extinguishers. Price bands run from entry-level (small DCP units, often plastic heads) to mid-range (2.5 to 4.5 kg units with metal heads) to premium (CO2 and wet chemical units, which cost more than DCP of a similar size). Be wary of very cheap units with incomplete labels.
Servicing: SANS 1475 and SAQCC Fire
This is where many households fall short. An extinguisher that hasn’t been looked at in years may have lost pressure, or its powder may have compacted.
For businesses and other premises covered by the regulations, extinguishers must be serviced by a company holding a SANS 1475 permit (SANS 1475-1 covers the reconditioning of portable rechargeable extinguishers), using technicians registered with SAQCC Fire. SAQCC Fire is mandated by the Department of Employment and Labour to register people who work in the fire protection industry. Industry practice is a service at least every 12 months, recorded on a service tag on the unit. Your insurer, landlord, body corporate or local fire safety officer may have their own requirements too.
Homes aren’t generally legally required to have their extinguishers serviced. You still should, because an unserviced extinguisher can fail when you need it. A sensible routine:
- Monthly (you): check that it’s in place, the pin and tamper seal are intact, the gauge is in the green, and there’s no rust, dents or damage to the hose.
- Yearly (a professional): a service by a SANS 1475 permit holder, with a new service tag.
- Pressure testing: cylinders also need periodic pressure (hydrostatic) testing. The interval depends on the type, so ask your service company and follow the manufacturer’s guidance.
- After any use: even a short burst. A partly used extinguisher can lose pressure and must be recharged or replaced.
To check a technician, ask to see their SAQCC Fire registration card and the company’s SANS 1475 permit.
How to use it: PASS
- Pull the pin (break the tamper seal).
- Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire, not the flames.
- Squeeze the handle.
- Sweep from side to side across the base of the fire.
Start about two to three metres away and move closer as the fire dies down. Back away rather than turning your back on it. Watch for re-ignition. Once the fire is out, call the fire brigade anyway to check it’s fully out, and ventilate the room. Our extinguisher types guide covers PASS in more detail.
Fires an extinguisher at home shouldn’t tackle
- Pan and oil fires: turn off the heat if you can do it safely and smother the pan with a fire blanket. Never use water, and don’t use a powder extinguisher at close range, which can blast burning oil out of the pan.
- Electrical fires: switch off the power at the DB board if it’s safe to reach. Use only an extinguisher whose label says it’s suitable for electrical equipment. Never use water.
- Gas fires: close the cylinder valve if you can reach it safely. If you can’t, get out and call for help. See our gas heater safety guide.
- Lithium and solar battery fires: get out and call for help. Don’t try to fight these yourself. Read our lithium battery fire safety guide.
- Anything bigger than a waste bin, or anything that’s spreading to walls, curtains or the ceiling.
The rest of your home fire kit
An extinguisher works best as part of a plan:
- Smoke alarms in passages and living areas, and a carbon monoxide alarm if you use gas or wood heaters. See our smoke and CO detector guide.
- A fire blanket in the kitchen.
- An escape plan: two ways out of every room, a meeting point outside, and burglar-bar keys that everyone can find in the dark.
- Emergency numbers saved in every family member’s phone.
FAQ
Is a fire extinguisher a legal requirement in a South African home?
Not for ordinary private homes in general. The servicing rules under SANS 1475 apply to business and other regulated premises. Your estate rules, body corporate, landlord or insurer may still ask for one, so check your agreements. Even when nobody requires it, a serviced extinguisher and a fire blanket are a sensible minimum.
How often should a home fire extinguisher be serviced?
Check it yourself monthly and have it professionally serviced every year by a SANS 1475 permit holder. Recharge or replace it after any use, even a short squeeze.
What is the best fire extinguisher for a kitchen?
A fire blanket for pan and oil fires, plus an ABC DCP extinguisher mounted near the kitchen exit for other fires. If you deep-fry a lot, a wet chemical extinguisher rated for class F is designed for cooking oil fires. Never use water on burning oil.
Can I use a DCP extinguisher on an electrical fire?
Many ABC DCP extinguishers are marked as suitable for electrical equipment, but check your label. Switch off the power first if you can do so safely. A CO2 extinguisher is often preferred for electronics because it leaves no residue.
How long does a fire extinguisher last?
It depends on the type, the manufacturer and how it’s maintained. A well-serviced cylinder can last many years, but it needs periodic pressure testing and must be replaced if it’s damaged, rusted or fails a test. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance and your service company’s advice.
More fire safety at home guides
Car fire extinguisher guide: size, type, mounting and law
Do you need a fire extinguisher in your car in South Africa? What the traffic rules say, which size and type to carry, how to mount it, and when to walk away.
Fire blanket guide: how to use one on a pan or clothing fire
How a fire blanket smothers a pan fire, the right way to use one, which size to buy, where to mount it, and why you should never throw water on burning oil.
Fire extinguisher types and classes, plus how to use one
DCP, CO2, foam, water or wet chemical? Learn the fire classes, how to read a South African extinguisher label, and the PASS method for using one safely.